Life in Maui has had its ups and downs. To say that the job market and general economy leave something to be desired is an understatement. I thought that living in Australia and Park City would prepare me for the cost of living around here…..it hasn’t. When a gallon of milk costs $8, half gallon of ice cream costs $9 (for the cheap kind) and with 5 other people in a house I am still paying over $50 for utilities….well you get the picture, its expensive!
That being said work has begun to get more consistent and in less than a week I crawled out of the minor debt I dug myself in. There was one small south swell that pulsed and I had some awesome days out on the waves. On one adventure my buddy Jason took me to a break called La Perouse, he mentioned something about how it was a crazy break and one of the best surfers in the world almost died there…oh great. When we got there we had to “hike” over a mile over an old Lava field that was razor sharp, which seeing that crazy landscape, was cool all by itself.
We paddle out and my throat was in my stomach, sets were roaring in and they were huge! It was one of the most surreal environments I have ever been in. Just as we get out to the line up the biggest set of the day came rolling through, 10ft faces with howling off shore winds. I paddled in for one wave but I was only kidding myself and didn’t commit 100%, at the time I was happy I missed the wave because I was confident I was going to die on it. 3hr’s later when neither Jason nor I had caught a wave because the sets all but stopped coming in, I was wishing I had a second chance on that wave.
La Perouse
La Perouse off in the distance, oh and if you caught the wave too far inside there was a section that broke right on the rock, there were also several memorials on the walk out….
WHAT! Weston be careful!!!
Sounds like you are having fun though! Get someone to video tape you and put that up. I still don’t believe for one second that you can surf.